Lindsay Delhi, India’s capital, is unlike anywhere I’ve ever been—chaotic, vibrant, and completely unforgettable. If you’re looking for things to do in Delhi as a solo female traveller, you’re in for an experience full of colour, culture, and surprises. I had all the usual nerves before going—Is it safe? Will I be overwhelmed? Will I love it? But from the moment I landed, I was swept up in the colour, chaos, kindness, and constant curiosity that defines this place. One minute you’re passing centuries-old Mughal monuments, the next you’re dodging rickshaws in a jam-packed market or strolling through a perfectly manicured garden. It’s a city that hits all your senses at once—and somehow, it just works.
With a history that stretches back through empires and colonial rule, Delhi has always been at the heart of India’s story. From grand structures like Humayun’s Tomb and Jama Masjid to modern marvels like the breathtaking Akshardham Temple, every corner feels like a time capsule with its own story to tell.
I arrived a few days before joining a Trafalgar tour, ready to give solo travel a shot—and Delhi didn’t hold back. It was overwhelming in the best way: exciting, intense, and kind of life-changing. I wandered the city, met some lovely people, and even found myself swept up in a full-blown wedding celebration outside my hotel—music, dancing, and colour everywhere. Totally unplanned, totally unforgettable.
This is just the beginning of my Delhi adventure—so grab a chai and settle in. If you’ve been to Delhi (or have it on your list!), I’d love to hear from you in the comments. And don’t forget to subscribe so you won’t miss the next part of the journey!
DAY ONE
✈️ Touchdown in Delhi, India’s Capital
As we were coming in to land at Delhi International Airport, I looked out of the plane window and tried to make out the vague shapes of the land below; however, I couldn’t see too much. It didn’t take me long to realise that it was because of the infamous smog that Delhi suffers from at this time of year, due to the burning of crops in the country and a mix of pollution. Anyway, I’m getting too technical now, as what do I know? I’m a travel agent, not a scientist! A few days from now, though, it would be bad enough to appear on BBC News in the UK, about a massive smog cloud that was blanketing northern India and parts of neighbouring Pakistan!
Smog or no smog, as the plane taxied to the gate, reality kicked in—I was in India! Even though I knew all my paperwork was in order, I still had major anxiety going through customs. Turns out, I didn’t need to worry—because the immigration officer flirted with me a little, even saying I looked 22. Not bad, considering it was my 42nd birthday that day!
After I was picked up by my transfer, I was whisked off to my hotel, driving past jungle on the outskirts of Delhi and even spotting my first few monkeys—so cute! We arrived at the Leela Ambience Convention Centre around 7:30 a.m., which was far too early to check in. So, I had some breakfast in their lovely restaurant, which, by the way, they didn’t charge me for 😊. It was a pretty tame meal, though, as I was too worried about getting Delhi Belly. I stuck to safe, Western foods like granola, toast, and pastries! As soon as I finished, I was eager to head out and explore Delhi.
🚗 First Attempt at Getting Around
I was joining a Trafalgar Tour in three days, but for now, I was travelling solo and ready to dive in. I went to the front of the hotel and tried to hail an autorickshaw. For those who aren’t familiar, they’re like tiny vans with open sides, painted bright green and yellow—basically a rite of passage in India. After a bit of a wait, I finally managed to get one, told the driver where I wanted to go, and he looked at me like I’d completely lost my mind and couldn’t get away fast enough.
What I didn’t realise at the time was that our hotel was in a really poor location—nowhere near public transport, and about a 45-minute to an hour’s drive into central Delhi. WTF??? So, I ended up hiring a private driver from the hotel reception for four hours, which cost me 4,000 rupees (around USD 47). Just to give you some perspective, a couple of days later, I took an Uber into town for about 300 rupees (USD 3.55). So yeah, the hotel was definitely cashing in on us.
As I was by myself for the first few days, and with my blonde hair and pale skin, I tended to stick out like a sore thumb. So, having a private driver was a huge advantage. Not only did I have a chaperone for the day, but also someone who spoke the language. From safety to logistics, it made exploring the city much more manageable, especially when it came to finding things to do in Delhi as a solo female traveller.
As I headed back into Delhi, the city was starting to wake up, and a more awake Delhi meant more traffic. My driver expertly weaved in and out of cars, bikes, autorickshaws, stray dogs, multiple cows, and people—it was utter madness!
I survived my first car ride and arrived at a place called Agrasen Ki Baoli, an old stepwell located near Connaught Place, down a little side street lined with some really cool street art. Built in the 14th century, Agrasen Ki Baoli was originally constructed to store water during the city’s dry months. You enter through a small courtyard, walk up a few steps to an archway, and the stepwell is right below as you enter. I’ll visit here again in three days with my tour group on a Sunday, when it’ll be packed with people, but today, there were only a handful of tourists. It’s a little treacherous, with the steps down to the water being huge and no handrails. However, I loved how well-preserved it was, with none of that 21st-century clutter messing with the vibe. It’s all made of brick, and it really is a cool feat of engineering.
Next up, I told my driver I wanted to see the Malai Mandir in New Delhi. This temple gave me a little taste of what I could expect in Chennai in southern India, with its colourful statues adorning the outside. After my tour finished in a couple of weeks, this was where I would end my India trip. When we arrived, I saw a monkey casually walk across my path, which totally made my day. Yep, I’m really in India now! As for the temple itself, it was a bit underwhelming—nothing too special to write home about.
🕌 A Humbling Visit to Gurudwara Bangla Sahib
Our next stop was the stunning Sikh temple, Gurudwara Bangla Sahib. Since I was wearing knee-length shorts and had my hair uncovered, I wasn’t appropriately dressed—my bag with everything I needed was still back at the hotel. A kind lady from the temple took me into a small room, handed me a pair of long pants (which honestly made me look like a clown), and spoke to me about Sikhism and its core pillars. I felt genuinely humbled by the whole experience, and her words made the visit even more meaningful as I wandered around and soaked in the atmosphere. I gave her a small donation and thanked her for her time.
Outside, however, my driver gave me a bit of a telling-off. He explained that donations should be placed directly into the temple’s charity box, not handed to individuals. There’s a good chance she might have pocketed it. Lesson learned!
The temple itself was breathtaking, built entirely from white marble, with glistening gold onion domes and beautifully carved windows trimmed in gold. As with many religious sites in India, photography wasn’t allowed inside. The interior was stunning, with an intricate gold-patterned ceiling and a huge Buddha where people knelt quietly in prayer.
Before leaving, my driver insisted I receive a blessing from a priest-like figure near the exit. I queued up and watched as he handed each person a small ball of something sweet called Karah Parshad. He was making it by hand, touching people, then using the same hand to break off pieces and give them out. I had to eat it out of respect, but the whole time I was thinking: please don’t let this be the moment I get Delhi belly!
Temple number three in as many hours was Birla Mandir, also known as the Lakshmi Narayan Temple. Painted in rich burgundy, yellow, and white, with tall towers framing the entrance, it reminded me, at a glance, of a colourful version of Angkor Wat. I didn’t have time to go inside during this visit, but I made a note to return in a couple of days and explore it properly. Even from the outside, it was a beautiful sight.
That said, be prepared—the moment you step out of the car, you’re surrounded by touts trying to sell you magnets and other random junk. A little annoying, but kind of expected at popular spots like this.
🧵 The Obligatory Shop Stop
After this (which honestly felt like a bit of a rite of passage), my driver took me to a place called Indian Loom—a beautiful shop filled with saris, carpets, and all kinds of ornaments. I really wasn’t up for going, as I’d already braced myself for the inevitable stop at “someone’s cousin’s shop” on every tour. Still, I’ll admit it was like stepping into Aladdin’s Cave—totally magical and packed with treasures. I could have easily dropped a small fortune in there, but I didn’t want to blow my budget on day one.
Feeling the jet lag starting to creep in, I headed back to the hotel. The drive took around 45 minutes, and while I’d had a great start to my Delhi adventure, it was already becoming clear that getting into town from my hotel was going to cost a small fortune every day. But hey, I was travelling solo and didn’t know any better yet.
Despite it only being around 1 p.m., the hotel kindly let me check in early. My room was gorgeous—spacious, with a massive king-sized bed all to myself and a large bathroom complete with a round bathtub. Before collapsing, I had a little snack: some lollies I’d brought from back home and a couple of granola bars. I was still too scared to eat any of the local food just yet—Delhi Belly paranoia was real.
By now, my bed was seriously calling. I set my alarm for a two-hour power nap… and I do remember it going off. But I hit snooze, and the next thing I knew, it was 4 a.m. the next day. Whoopsie. Damn jet lag!
DAY TWO
The following morning, I decided to go all in and hire a private driver for the entire day. His name was Deepak—softly spoken, polite, and incredibly patient. While I was still figuring out where I wanted to go, a guy at the concierge desk recommended I visit the Swaminarayan Akshardham Temple, a huge Hindu temple only about a 15–20 minute drive from the hotel.
The only downside? You’re not allowed to take photos inside (where have we heard that before, right?). But honestly, don’t let that stop you. It’s one of the most spectacular places I’ve ever seen.
From the outside, it doesn’t look particularly jaw-dropping. But the moment I joined the line of thousands of Indian visitors, the sheer scale of the place started to hit me. It was incredibly busy, and I stood out like a sore thumb with my blonde hair—everyone was staring, which is something you eventually get used to in India. Still, I felt a bit uneasy.
As we queued up in organised rows, a group of school kids passed by, saying hello and asking where I was from. One of them then shouted, “You look weird!” which stung a little. I glanced around and realised I was the only Westerner there. It suddenly felt quite isolating.
Security here is tight, too—men and women have to enter through separate lines, and bags are thoroughly checked. But once you make it through the chaos, you’re rewarded with a breathtakingly beautiful complex that completely took me by surprise.
A Temple Like No Other
Once inside the complex, I was surrounded by perfectly manicured gardens and striking architecture. I passed by the Eight Gates, each with water flowing down them, symbolising the flow of spiritual energy (I’ll admit, I didn’t catch the full meaning at the time—but they were beautiful all the same).
I continued through an open courtyard, wandered through a small museum, and then entered the main complex area—and that’s when I saw it: the temple.
I just stood there in awe.
It was now late morning, and the sun was beginning to burn through the thick smog, casting a hazy golden glow over everything. The timing was perfect—it felt like the whole scene was slowly revealing itself to me.
The temple was getting busier by the minute, but I didn’t let that stop me. I made my way toward the stairs, ready to head inside, until I noticed that everyone had taken off their shoes. Right. No shoes allowed.
I walked over to the designated shoe hut, but it was chaos. The man in charge seemed to prioritise men and those offering money, completely ignoring solo women like me. After waiting, trying to edge forward, and getting nowhere, I gave up. Honestly, between being called weird earlier and now being totally overlooked by the shoe guy, my patience was wearing thin.
Frustrated, I stomped around the side of the hut to find the exit—and that’s when I noticed something: hundreds of pairs of shoes had been left in a quiet corner nearby. My mood instantly shifted. I kicked mine off and rejoined the stream of visitors heading into the temple.
A Moment That Took My Breath Away
And thank goodness I did—because what came next ended up being one of the highlights of my entire India trip.
The temple itself is a masterpiece. Multiple domes rise into the sky, with broad, regal steps leading up to a set of enormous black doors. As I stepped through them, I entered one of the most stunning spaces I’ve ever seen.
A giant gold statue stood at the centre, glowing beneath the soft light filtering through the high ceilings. People all around me were deep in prayer, and even though I’m not religious, I felt genuinely moved. Something about the atmosphere, the architecture, and the moment itself just made me pause and take it all in.
The interior dome and walls were covered in intricate, hand-carved designs, each more beautiful than the last. I couldn’t stop staring. It was peaceful and awe-inspiring all at once.
Eventually, I made my way back outside and grabbed a small treat from a nearby vendor—some kind of soft ginger biscuit. I wasn’t totally sure what it was, but it was warm, slightly sweet, and absolutely delicious.
India Gate & Blue Skies (Finally!)
The next stop of the morning was India Gate. This is a huge arch where ceremonies and parades take place on national holidays, kind of like the Arc de Triomphe. As the smog slowly cleared, I started to see a glimpse of blue sky. I hadn’t expected to see any while in India, so it was such a relief to catch a break from the smog cover. It also made it feel very hot, and it wasn’t long before my clothes started sticking to me!
Next, we drove toward India’s Parliament, which was in a nice, green part of the city. Deepak parked the car so I could hop out and watch the monkeys playing for a few minutes. They were so cute, fighting with each other and jumping in and out of the trees. I was completely amazed… while the locals looked at me like I was the strange one. I know monkeys are seen as pests in India, but honestly, I love them.
Directly in front of this area is Parliament House, where the current Indian Prime Minister lives. The buildings would fit very comfortably in Rome, with their elegant colonial design and huge domes on top. It was all very grand.
After a busy morning, it was time for lunch. Still terrified of getting Delhi belly, I hadn’t eaten properly since I’d arrived, except for granola bars, lollies, and biscuits. But I love Indian food, so I decided it was time to stop being a massive wimp and actually eat something.
We drove to a place called Lazeez Affaire, and I invited my driver, Deepak, to join me for lunch, which was really nice. We chatted about our families while we ate. I’d read about this restaurant in The Lonely Planet and heard it was great for Western tummies. And it really was! I had the best lime pickle and onion chutney with poppadums, a green side salad, lentil curry, rice, and loads of naan bread. I had a real food coma afterwards and could have slept until the next day, I was so full.
I had planned on visiting the Gandhi Museum next, but it was closed due to a public holiday. So instead, we decided to drive over to the National Museum of Delhi. When we arrived, I spotted the sign outside the ticket office—Foreigner fee: 650 INR. Indian fee: just 20 INR. WTF???
Deepak decided to come in with me, which was actually really nice—I had some company. He pointed out important artifacts as we explored, ones I definitely would’ve missed otherwise. The museum is housed in a lovely building, and it’s a great place to learn more about Indian culture and history.
That said, the layout and some of the displays were pretty disappointing, especially considering this is the National Museum. The highlights for me were the miniature paintings of life in India, which felt like snapshots from the past. There was also an excellent bronze section, including a beautiful Ganesh statue, and even an intact human skeleton on display.
That was my last stop for the day—I was too tired to take in any more information or visit anywhere new. On the way back to the hotel, we made a quick stop at an area called Khan Market, as I needed to grab a few groceries. It seemed like quite an upmarket spot, with nice shops, bars, a Starbucks, The Body Shop, and even a Pret A Manger.
An Ice Bath, Fireworks & the Perfect End to the Day
That night, back at the hotel, I went for a swim. I was absolutely melting and looking forward to a refreshing dip. But as soon as I stepped in, I legit thought I might die. I’ve never experienced water that cold in my life! It literally took my breath away—I couldn’t breathe. I had to force myself to swim a few laps just to warm up again.
To be fair, I’d eaten so much bad food over the past few days that it felt like a small price to pay.
Since it was a public holiday, there were fireworks going off in the distance. Looking down from the hotel pool, watching Delhi sparkling beneath me. It was the perfect end to the day.
DAY 3
The following day, I woke up to much less smog. Today was also my final day in India by myself—phew! I have to say, though, this turned out to be an epic day. One I’ll remember for the rest of my life.
It didn’t exactly get off to a great start, though…
I went down to reception to organise a driver for the day, but before I could sort any transport, I was told I had to check out of my room. What??? Nope. I was staying for another three nights! Turns out, Trafalgar had booked me into a different room for the tour component, so I had to sprint upstairs and pack everything up in like 15 minutes. What a faff. Oh well, it is what it is!
Getting Around Delhi: Uber Style
Next, I went back to request a driver, only to be told they had none available. Great. So, I opened my app and ordered an Uber. Surprisingly, it only came to 300 rupees, which honestly made my day.
Connaught Place.
Connaught Place.
My driver, however, was a total misery. Zero conversation and aggressively beeped his horn every two seconds. But he got me where I needed to go: the Hard Rock Café in Connaught Place. I stopped in for some food (yummm), but my main reason for visiting was to pick up a pin for my travel collection, as I collect them from every place I visit.
Afterwards, I decided to swing by the Delhi Tourist Information Centre to see if I could get some ideas for the day and possibly even hire a driver to take me around for the rest of the afternoon.
Walking through the streets of Delhi, I followed Google Maps and started heading to the left. A few minutes later, I looked around and realised I was the only tourist in sight. Suddenly, I got scared. I felt really intimidated. It was crowded, loud, hot, and people were constantly approaching me, trying to coax me into their shops or convince me to buy their wares.
It all became overwhelming very quickly, and I just ran into a doorway and pretended to look at my phone, when in reality, I was having a mini panic attack.
That little meltdown in a random doorway? Not my finest moment. But hey, solo travel isn’t always smooth sailing. India was intense, unpredictable, and totally pushed me out of my comfort zone. And in just the first few days, I packed in everything from ancient stepwells to beautiful temples and monuments.
If you’re wondering whether Delhi is worth it as a solo female traveller. Trust me, it is! It’s chaotic, beautiful, overwhelming, and unforgettable. You just need to be prepared, stay flexible, and bring a big sense of adventure (and maybe some hand sanitiser 🙈).
There’s so much more coming in Part Two, including what it’s really like joining a group tour solo, so be sure to subscribe or follow me on Instagram @thetravelvine to stay in the loop!
📌 Planning your own trip? If you love the look of these spots but prefer a bit more structure, safety, and comfort, you can visit them on this customizable private tour. It includes a private AC car, driver, and local guide so you can explore Old and New Delhi entirely at your own pace!
Happy travels,
Lindsay x
Wow!!! You’re so brave to travel to Delhi all by yourself. That’s great! Delhi looks so fairytale from your post. Thank you for sharing. Great pictures as always.
Thank you, I was proud of myself for stepping out of my comfort zone, but also, Delhi is such as exciting place, so stay tuned for part 2!
It seems like such an incredible travel experience to have, just looking through your photos was amazing. It seems you can pack quite a lot in 5 days, which is a great way to see what Delhi has to offer!
Thanks Molly! It got me out of my comfort zone, but I loved it! Delhi has so many wonderful places to photograph and explore. This is just part one though, so keep an eye out for part 2 coming out in a few months 🙂
Great post! It looks like an amazing adventure, and I’m so impressed by the solo travel. My brother lived in New Delhi and I’m so bummed I didn’t get to visit – this reinforces that I’ll have to go on my own. Thanks for sharing!
Savannah | https://www.sunshinewithsavannah
Sorry for the late reply! Thanks Savannah. I bet your brother has lot of fond memories about his time in Delhi, as with most India cities, they are very welcoming. Also, there’s so much to do here. Defo keep an eye for part 2 next month 🙂
What a fun post to read! I really enjoyed it and felt inspired to travel to India one day. Excited to read part 2!
Thank you, much appreciated! It was one of the best experiences of my life. Can’t wait to share part 2 🙂
Whilst I’m not brave enough to go solo travelling to Delhi, it’s great that you felt able to. I love how much you managed to see in your first few days, although I would have definitely had a panic attack in that situation too.
I definitely recommend solo travel, as you don’t have to answer to anyone, and you can visit all the places that suit you. While Delhi was scary at time, I loved this city 🙂 Thanks for reading and keep an eye out for part 2 next month 🙂
Wow! Your photos are amazing! Thanks for sharing this cool article I have wanted to go to India for awhile now and I like to read other people’s experiences. Great tips and run down of your trip there!!
Thanks Andrea! It was a trip of a lifetime, which totally lived up to my expectations of this wonderful country. The people are so welcoming, and accepting too. I can’t wait to visit again in the future 🙂